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Tips & tricks for working with jersey

Who doesn't love sewing up a quick and easy jersey top! No need for zips, button holes or any sort of fiddly fastenings. However, it's good to know what tools to use and how to handle stretch fabric. We've popped together this post to give you some handy tips for using this fabulous fabric!
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Tip 1. Correct needle - Try to use a stretch needle when sewing with jersey, the ballpoint tip of the needle finds its way through the weave of the stretch fabric and avoids snags. However, when working with a good quality cotton jersey fabric a regular needle can be used. A needle that is around a 80/12 is perfect for midweight jersey fabrics.
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Tip 2. Sharp new pins - When pinning jersey it's a good idea to use a pack of sharp new pins. So throw away those blunt old pins and treat yourself to some shiny new ones!
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Tip 3. Cutting out - Make sure to keep the fabric flat and cut out on a hard/sturdy surface. Keep the scissors flat to the table and long snips from the back of the blade for more control. A rotary cutter can also be used to cut out jersey fabric however, it is only recommended to cut the straight edges, stick to scissors for curved edges to avoid taking chunks out of your cutting mat! When handling jersey fabric, especially the neckline, be careful not to pull at the raw edges so as not to stretch out of shape .
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 Tip 4. Stretch stitches on machine - When sewing jersey fabric it's handy to use a stretch stitch such as a 'triple stitch' or a 'zig zag'. You can also sew seams with an overlocker, which has four threads and allows extra stretch. All three of these options allow good movement in the garment you are making.
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Tip 5. Hemming - When finishing off the raw edges of your garment, an overlocker can be used or an overcasting stitch on the sewing machine. A twin needle can be used when hemming the garment. More information can be found on twin needling here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/single-post/2018/05/01/How-to-sew-using-a-twin-needle
Or your garment can be hemmed on the sewing machine just make sure the hem is not too narrow and to catch the overlocking/casting stitch on the underside to avoid curling when being worn.
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Find more jersey sewing projects via our website - https://owlandsewingcat.com

3 comments

  • Thank you for your comments, we now have a handy blog post showing different techniques to finish seams – https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/blogs/blog/three-ways-to-finish-seams we’d recommend finishing off the seam around the neckline/sleeves then turn under by 1cm and stitching to hold in place! If you have any further questions, feel free to contact us via the website.

    Owl and Sewing Cat
  • Good morning, I have recently purchased the batwing top pattern on create and craft, I have sewn bags, curtains, cushions before etc., but have never made clothes before, the only thing I am not sure about is sewing the hem around the neck line, is there any video or link to show how this is done, as I’m not sure how to make it look neat, I don’t have an over locker. Thank you

    Linda
  • Just doing your simple jersey top pattern. I’m on instructions number 2 . I don’t have an over locker for the neck and sleeve which stitch do you recommend for this ? I’ve used a small zigzag for joining the seams

    Lesley Howard

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