To start, cut new straps on the bias using the following cutting instructions -
For the diagonal straps - cut 1.25" wide x 25" long on the bias.
For the straight straps - cut 1.25" wide x by the same length as your original pattern strap length on the bias.
Amounts of each strap depend on what design you would like to create!
You will also need a small safety pin for turning or you can also use a loop turner tool, a ruler and chalk/invisible marker pen.
Next, mark your seam allowance onto your straps. Take one strap piece and using a ruler (as shown below) or a tape measure, measure a 1/4" seam allowance and then mark onto one long edge of the strap. This will be your guide when sewing your rouleaux straps.
Next, sew the strap with right sides together and the long raw edges lined up. Sew with a 1/4" seam allowance and following your markings made in the previous step as a guide. If you have a 1/4" foot, it would be great to use it at this stage. Do a lock in stitch at the beginning and end of your sewing.
Now it's time to turn through the strap. Attach a small safety pin at one end of the strap and thread through the strap and pull out the other end, turning the strap the right sides out. You could alternatively use a loop turner for this step.
Repeat this process with all four strap pieces and give them a press, it's best to do this with the seam running down the back of the strap if possible.
Next, pin your straps into place! Use the pattern to guide you and pin onto the front main panel first with the two straps sitting together and with the short raw edges in line with the straight raw edge of the top. Remembering to leave space either side for the seam allowance either side of the straps. Pin into place.
Now, pin the other ends of the straps onto the back main panel of the top, ensure they are not twisted. Use the notches as a guide, pinning the straps centrally within the notches. Carry on with the construction of the top as shown in the pattern from step 8.
There are three options for these pretty double straps, you can either cross over of both straps, cross over of the inner set of straps, or wear both straight. Please see the images below to refer to. (Please note the diagonal straps will need to be the longer length straps.)
We hope you enjoyed using this sewing hack! The Camille Cami pattern can be found here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/camille-cami-top-pattern-sizes-10-28
]]>
What you'll need -
Wide leg trousers
Pattern - find it HERE
Fabric
Sewing machine
Pins
Safety pins
Tape measure
Cutting out
To start, cut the fabric for your ties. You can use your waistband pattern piece from the Wide Leg Trousers pattern. Simply cut two strips on the fold but fold back the length of the pattern piece to 16.5". Making each strip 33" x 3.25".
Step 1. Is to pop a safety pin onto the right side of the ties.
Step 2. Fold each of the ties in half length ways with the long raw edges touching. Stitch down the long edge and also the short edge with the safety pin, ensuring the safety pin is out of the way of the machine needle when stitching. Leave the other short edge unstitched.
Step 3. Turn the ties through the unstitched short edge, using the safety pin to pull the fabric through, so the tie is right sides facing out. Then give both ties a press.
Step 4. Time to pop your ties in place on your trousers! Take your tape measure and measure the distance between the centre front seam and the side seam (behind the pocket opening). Then pop a pin in the waistband at the half-way point of that measurement. Do this for each left and right leg. For example, our trouser's measurement from the centre front seam to the side seam is 9". The half-way point is 4.5". So we popped a pin at that point for each leg.
Top tip - ensure the gathers of your elasticated waistband are as even as possible at this point, as you'll be stitching your ties into place onto the waistband for the next step.
Step 5. Take one of your ties and pin the short raw edge where one of the pins on your waistband is. Stitch to hold in place, ensuring you do a forwards and backwards lock-in stitch at the beginning and end of your sewing.
Step 6. Next, take your tape measure and measure along 1" from your line of stitching, pop a pin in place to hold your tie onto your waistband. Sew a line of stitching where your pin maker is, parallel to your first line of stitching.
Step 7. Now, fold back your tie (towards the centre front seam of your trousers) so it is covering the short raw edge that you first stitched. Sew a rectangle to cover the raw edge and anchor the tie into place.
Step 8. Repeat these steps to sew the second tie onto the other side of your trouser's waistband.
Step 9. Tie your bow and you are finished! Hope you get to make many more pairs of these lovely trousers.
Find our trouser pattern here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/wide-leg-trousers-pattern-sizes-10-28
]]>We're sharing how to do tailor's tacks. They are hand-sewn stitches used to mark specific points from a paper pattern onto fabric. For example, to indicate where darts are made on garments. We use these to mark the darts onto our new Wrap Skirt pattern.
You'll need -
Pattern
Fabric
Needle
Thread
Scissors
Step 1. Thread your needle with a double thread, do not knot the end.
Step 2. Using the marker on the pattern piece. Take your first stitch through the pattern and fabric. (Go through all the layers if you have two pieces of fabric together.) Remove the pattern piece and pull the long tail but not all the way through the fabric.
Step 3. Come back up at the same point leaving a large loop on the back of the fabric.
Step 4. Repeat the last process. Leaving a loop on the front of the fabric also.
Step 5. Snip the thread to remove the needle then snip the loops left on the back and front of the fabric.
Step 6. Gently open up the fabric, snip the threads joining the fabric together.
Step 7. Leaving tufts on both pieces of fabric. You can carefully adjust these by pulling them slightly so there is equal amounts of thread on each side of the fabrics.
These are your tailor's tacks! Giving you handy markings on your fabric.
This technique is used to make the darts for our new wrap skirt which you can find HERE.
]]>We're sharing tips & tricks for sewing darts. Darts are folds that are sewn into fabric to give shape to clothing.
Step 1. Mark the dart's markings onto your fabric from the pattern piece. You can do this with little snips and a tailor's tack as shown below. Find more on tailor's tacks HERE.
Step 2. Fold your fabric with right sides together, as if you are ready to sew. Matching your snips at the top raw edge. Pin in place to hold. Your tailor's take will be inline with the fold of the fabric. It can be helpful to mark the stitch line for your dart onto the fabric using a ruler and chalk or invisible pen. This is a handy guide to follow when you are sewing.
Step 3. Begin sewing at the outside point of your dart, where the snips are, making your way to the inside point, where the tailor's tack is. Following the chalk marking if you made one.
Step 4. A handy tip is to line up the inside marking of your dart with the machine needle as a guide as you sew, to ensure you sew in a straight line.
Step 5. When you come to the end of your dart, sew to the end and do a lock in stitch by going up and down in the same spot. Use a '0' stitch length to do this. (Or if you have a Brother machine as shown below you can press and hold the 'o' button which will sew a lock in stitch on the spot.) Then leave a long length of threads to allow you to tie a knot to secure. This creates a nice finish at the end point of your dart.
Step 6. Remove your tailor's tack and knot your threads.
Your dart is now complete!
This technique is used to make our new wrap skirt which you can find HERE.
]]>We're sharing a few simple tips & tricks for pressing darts for our wrap skirt.
- Darts are pressed towards the outside seams of the garment.
- Ideally use a ham to press your darts to give a nice shape when ironing.
- When using an ironing board, lift the fabric as you go and iron right into the corner of the dart to open up the shape.
This technique is used to make our new wrap skirt which you can find HERE.
]]>We're using a contrast thread for this example, so it can be seen clearer in the photos. We're using the opening left on our Dilly duck pattern.
To start, knot your double thread and take one stitch within the seam allowance at the start of the opening to anchor your sewing.
Next, take a small stitch on the folded edge of the pressed seam allowance from one side of the opening.
Repeat this process by taking a stitch from the folded edge of the pressed seam allowance from the other side of the opening.
You can see the stitches being pulled together here, this is where the ladder stitch gets its name!
Continue to take stitches from each pressed edge. These stitched can be 1cm apart but they can be made longer or shorter if you wish.
Work your way along the opening. As you come to an end, make a knot by taking a loop and thread through and snip your threads. Tah Dah you have finished!
Find our cute Dilly duck sewing pattern HERE.
]]>For this example we are attaching a collar onto a neckline for the Alice top.
If possible, you can remove the side of your overlocker so you can stitch with the free arm which can help with sewing smaller loops such as sleeve cuffs or collars.
Begin your overlocking like normal, gradually starting your seam and trimming the required amount of seam allowance as you go. Keep all the raw edges in line and keep to a consistent seam allowance when overlocking.
As you come back round to meet with your original overlocking, ensure you stop trimming the seam allowance as you join up with the start.
This is so you can overlap your original stitching without cutting further into your garment.
Allow your needles to stitch over the original overlocking where you started off. After it has joined gradually pull away and cut your threads.
Tah Dah! You have successfully joined your overlocking in a loop.
]]>We are making the Alice top pattern to show this technique.
First, take the collar piece and fold so wrong sides are facing. With the seam on the right hand side find the half way point on the opposite side and mark with a pin.
Fold again so markers meet. Now pop a pin at the quarter folds.
Now you have your quarters pinned, it's time to mark out the quarter points on your main top neckline.
Mark the centre points on the neckline of the top. Start by bringing the shoulder seams together, giving you the centre points of the neckline front and back. Pop a pin in place to mark these centre points.
Now, to find the final quarter points on the neckline, fold so the centre points are matching.
Mark each point with a pin on each shoulder. The quarter points are just below the shoulder seam. This is because the neckline on the front of the main top is slightly bigger due to the scoop.
It's now time to attach your collar to the neckline of the top. Place with right sides together.
Line up the pins on the collar with the pins on the neckline of the top. Do this for all four quarters. (Placing the seam of your collar piece at the back or side of your neckline). Ease in between the pins if required.
Pop in some additional pins to hold the collar in place if you wish.
Stitch in place to hold and you are done!
To find the Alice top pattern tap HERE.
]]>This is a technique that involves sewing rows of stitching with an elastic thread to create a decorative effect. Shirring can be used when dressmaking. As shown below on our summer dress, pattern available here.
What you'll need -
Fabric (ideally light weight cotton for your first try!)
Shirring elastic
Sewing Thread
Iron with steam
Step 1 - thread your bobbin with the shirring elastic. We do this by hand winding the elastic onto the bobbin. It can help to thread the elastic through the hole in the bobbin at the start of your winding, this can be held in place as you start to wind. Make sure to pull fairly tight as you go as this will help create your gathered stitches later on.
Step 2 - thread up your machine. Pop the shirring elastic into the bobbin case at the bottom of the machine as normal. Use a regular thread on the top of your machine.
Step 3 - lengthen your stitch length to around a 3.5-4mm (this may need adjusting as you start sewing and dependent on fabric choice.) The thread tension shouldn't need adjusting but you can however make this slightly tighter if needed.
Step 4 - before you begin sewing, pull up the elastic through the plate of the sewing machine. Do this by hand turning the fly wheel and pulling up the thread so you have your bobbin elastic and top thread in your hand.
Step 5 - as you start sewing keep a hold of the elastic and thread and do a forward and back lock in stitch at the start of your sewing. Then continue on with your first line of stitching. Do another lock in stitch to finish off your first line of sewing. Do not cut your threads with the automatic thread cutter if your machine has this feature. Cut your threads using scissors, snips or the blade at the side of your machine.
Step 6 - repeat with more rows of stitching using the same seam allowance between each row as you go. We are using the edge of the foot lined up with the previous row of stitching as a guide. As you repeat the process, make sure to keep your fabric flat as you sew the following rows (as shown in the second picture below).
Step 7 - keep on repeating the rows of stitching until you have your desired amount.
Step 8 - Last but not least, run a steaming iron lighty over your shirring. The steam will pull in the elastic stitching and complete your shirring!
Tah Dah! You have now completed your shirring. Hope you get to use this technique with different dressmaking projects in the future.
]]>Ever wondered how to get those corners nice and neat when sewing a cube shape? We're sharing our technique to create a perfect corner.
First, sew four of your squares of main fabric together, sewing two squares together first with right sides facing and adding the others on one at a time, stopping 1cm (or your seam allowance) from the bottom end.
Now when you attach the fifth bottom panel of your cube shape, you will be able to fit it into the seam allowance that was left open when stitching your four sides together.
Creating a nice neat corner as shown below!
This technique is used when making our storage box pattern, also our NEW sewing kit to make a wall hanging and cute storage cubes.
Find them here -
https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/storage-box-pattern
https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/hanging-sewing-room-storage-wall-hanging-sewing-kit
]]>
Step 1 - Start by taking your two ends of bias binding and open them out flat.
Step 2 - Place them with right sides together and at a 90 degree angle. Keeping the bias flat when you do this. Pop in a pin to keep them in place.
Step 4 - You can check at this point that your stitching will be going in the correct direction.
Step 5 - Move your needle to the middle position, this is to have a clearer view when stitching.
Step 6 - Stitch them together diagonally, from one open edge where they cross over to the other. Remove the pin as you go. Ensure that you stitch where the folds in the bias binding as touching.
Step 7 - It's now time to trim the excess bias. Snip off any excess bias tape approx 0.5cm from the stitch line.
Step 8 - Give it a press and you are finished!
Find lots of fab sewing patterns that use bias binding over on our shop - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/collections
]]>Please note you will require more fabric to do this.
Step 1 - check your required length before cutting your fabric. Use the lower side snip marks as your waistline and measure down to centre back hem to check length. Make a note of how much extra length you would like to add and take into account this will be hemmed by 1cm which is included in the original pattern.
Step 2 - you may need to add some extra paper to your pattern at the hem of the dress. We did this by sticking together some A4 sheets of printer paper and then sticking this to the pattern. You could use baking paper or even newspaper instead!
Step 3 - add the extra length required to your pattern by using a ruler. We are using a flat ruler used for rotary cutting. Start by lining up your desired added length on the ruler with the bottom hem of the dress pattern shown below. We are lengthening our dress by 3". Use the 3" line on the ruler to match up with the line on the pattern. Draw a horizontal line 3" below this.
If you do not have a flat ruler as shown here, alternatively you can use a regular ruler or tape measure and simply mark out the extra length you require as shown below. Mark little dashes mark with a pen along the hem and draw a line to join up these markers to create your new lengthened hem line.
Step 4 - next, using the side of the dress pattern piece as a guide, draw your vertical lines to join up the original pattern piece with the new hem. Do this on each side of the pattern piece.
Step 5 - make sure to repeat this process on the front AND back pattern pieces.
You can now cut out your pattern and fabric and start sewing your new dress!
Find the sewing pattern here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/collections/dressmaking-patterns/products/jersey-wrap-dress-pattern-sizes-10-28
]]>When making the drawstring channel start by making two snips on both sides of the main panel. (We do this approx 9cms down from the top edge and make the snip 1cm deep, as this is our seam allowance.)
Ensure the snips are equal distance down from the top on both sides. Use a tape measure at this point or your cutting mat to get the snips even. This will ensure your drawstring channel will be straight.
Fold the fabric above the snip over by 1cm onto the wrong side of the fabric and press. Stitch close to the raw edge to hold into place.
You can now turn under your top raw edge and press by approx 1cm. Then turn under by a further 4cm and press to hold.
At this point you can use your handy hemming guide if you have one. We have a DIY blog post showing how to make one here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/blogs/blog/diy-hemming-guide
Your even snips will make this simpler to line up. After pressing, stitch along the bottom folded edge to hold and form the channel.
Now, fold your bag panel with right sides together and pin the side and bottom raw edges. Sew along the bottom and up the side stopping exactly at the snip. Leave the top of the bag (with the channel) open.
Neaten the seams by overlocking the raw edges, or cutting with pinking shears.
Turn the bag right sides out and press. Thread cord through the open channel at the top of your bag. The easiest way to this is by attaching a safety pin to one end of the cord and passing it through to the other side. Tie the two ends of your cord together or attach a cord lock to stop your cord falling out.
Congratulations your drawstring bag is finished!
Find the sewing pattern here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/drawstring-bag-pattern
]]>We're using three buttons on the back of our cushion. Start by finding the half way point of your placket by folding on cushion back piece in half. Mark with a pin.
Now find the equal positions either side of the half way point. The easiest way to do this is to fold either side back so it is in half again. With the raw edges lined up.
Allow 1cm to overhang on both sides, this is to allow for your seam allowance that will be used when joining the front and back of the cushion together as shown in the following photos (You can adjust this amount depending on the seam allowance you are using.)
Finger press and pop in your pins to mark the remaining two folds. You now have three equal marked points where the buttons will be positioned. Open out flat.
Now it's time to make your button holes and construct the rest of your cushion!
Have a browse of our cushion patterns here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/collections/cushion-patterns
]]>
To start we need to hem one of the back panel pieces of your cushion. We use a hemming guide, you can make one for free using our DIY hemming guide blog post - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/blogs/blog/diy-hemming-guide
We want to hem each back piece by 2" and a further 2". We use the 2" line as a guide to start folding the placket of the back panel.
Press to hold into place.
Repeat the process with a second fold to hide the raw edge.
The back panel placket will now measure 2" wide, stitch to hold in place.
Then repeat this process with the second back panel piece.
Tah dah! You have your placket with your two back panels fitting nicely together. The next step is to pop the buttons and button holes onto your placket, see our blog post on how to do this -
This technique is used when making our Family Tree Cushion and Four Patch Cushion. Both can be found here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/collections/cushion-patterns
]]>We use this technique when making our cute Santa Doorstop or Hanging Santa Gonk or Harry Hedgehog.
Start by finding even quarter points on the main body piece.
Do this by folding the body in half and lining up the side seams, this will give you the half way point of the body front and back.
Pop some pins in place to mark these points.
Then repeat this process with the circular base piece, by folding in half and half again to find the quarter points.
You will then line these pins up to join the main body and base together.
Ensure when pinning together that the pins are popped in place where you will be sewing, so, within the seam allowance. Next, stitch slowly and carefully around the circle, feeling the underneath layer as you go to ensure there are no puckers.
Tah Dah! The base has been sewn, now to continue sewing your project!
Find our Santa Doorstop here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/santa-doorstop-pattern
Harry Hedgehog can be found here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/harry-the-hedgehog-doorstop-pattern
]]>You'll need -
Waistband elastic approx 1"/2.5cm wide
Tulle approx 1 x roll, 6"/15cm wide
Step 1. Measure the waist of who you're making your tutu for, cut the elastic to fit by reducing by measurement by approx 20%. This is so your waistband will not fall down and have a snug fit.
Step 2. The only step using a sewing machine! Create your elastic waistband. Overlap the raw edges of the elastic by approx 2cm, ensuring your elastic isn't twisted. Then stitch together with a square as shown below.
Step 3. Now it's time to start cutting your strips of tulle. You can do this with scissors or using a mat and rotary cutter. We used a roll of tulle that measures 15cm wide. The length of the strips will be dependent on the length of your finished tutu. Cut strips with the length of your desired finished length doubled, plus 10cm for attaching to your waistband.
(For example if you would like your tutu to measure 25cm long from the top of the waist band to the bottom of the tutu, cut your strips 60cm. (25cm x2 = 50cm plus 10cm = 60cm))
Step 4. Time to assemble your tutu. Lay your elastic waistband flat on a table or pop it around the back of a chair or even onto a body form's waist. Then start to tie your tulle strips to your elastic.
Fold one strip in half (rest behind the elastic) and pop the raw ends through the loop while attaching to the elastic. Pull down tightly as shown below to secure.
Step 5. Keep repeating this process until you have a nice, full skirt.
Step 6. After attaching all of your tulle strips to your elastic you can always add a bow to show the front of the tutu, as shown in the picture below...and you are finished!
Hope you enjoy making you tutu!
]]>You will need:
Main fabric
Embroidery thread
Long doll needle
Stuffing
A stick
Take one rectangular piece of fabric and fold so the right sides facing are together. Line up the short raw edges sew to make a tube. Ensure to do a lock-in stitch at the beginning and end of your sewing.
Press seam open.
Hand stitch a line of taking stitches around the bottom raw edge. Approx 1cm from the raw edge. Pull in to gather the fabric. Stitch closed with a knot.
Turn so right sides are facing out and fill with stuffing. Fill with as much as stuffing as possible at this point.
Repeat step 3 with the top raw edge. Please note you may find it useful to use your embroidery thread for this step, as pulling the fabric in with the stuffing inside can cause regular thread to break.
Take a long length of your embroidery thread and long doll needle, make a few stitches to anchor your thread at the bottom of your pumpkin. Then, push the needle and thread through to the top of pumpkin, pull tight to create a crease. Continue doing this around your pumpkin as in the following photos. Making approx 5 or 6 creases per pumpkin.
Finish off your stitching by pulling tight and creating a knot at the bottom of your pumpkin.
Now it’s time to find a small stick and pop into the top of your pumpkin and you are finished! Hope you get to make many more!
Find the FREE sewing pattern to download here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/free-pumpkins-pattern-and-instructions
]]>
You'll simply need a needle and thread, we have used a polyester thread here as it's a little bit stronger than cotton thread.
1. Start by snipping a long piece of thread approx 1.5m long.
2. Fold your length of thread in half and thread through the eye of your needle, then knot the ends together and you will have four strands in total.
3. Find where you'd like your belt lop to sit and on the inside of your garment make a few stitches within the seam allowance to anchor your threads.
4. Then pull your needle and thread through to the rigth side of the garment (usually through a seam) and take a stitch on the outside of the garment to make a loop with your thread.
5. Put your hand through the loop and pull your thread through this loop and pull down the knot to your starting point (without pulling through your needle). Repeat this process until you have created your chain as shown in the photos below. Approx 5cms long, this will depend on your tie/belt width.
6. To finish the chain simply pop your needle through the last loop and tightly pull the last knot to secure.
7. Then sew through the starting point and tie a knot on the inside of the garment.
Tah dah! You have finished your first belt loop now it's time to repeat this process on the other side of the dress/tunic.
Find our Ava pattern here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/search?q=ava
]]>The seam guide had a strong magnet on the underside of the main body which sits on your machine plate.
Choose what seam allowance you want to use by positioning it in place on the grid on your plate, or using a tape measure, by measuring in from your needle position to the seam guide.
The flat edge will be facing inwards towards your needle. ensure your fabric is butting up against the flat edge of the seam guide. This will ensure you have a lovely straight line when you sew.
Now that you have finished sewing your seam will be even thanks to the seam guide keeping your fabric in place.
Buy yours here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/magnetic-seam-guide
]]>Our Ava tunic is a new pattern that has a pretty V neckline.
Step 1. Start by attaching the facing to the neckline as shown in the pattern.
Step 2. When sewing the bottom point of the triangle, stitch down one side of the V then pivot and sew just one stitch across horizontally.
Tip. You can pop a pin in place to hold the facing to the top which doing step 2.
Step 3. When creating your one horizontal stitch at the bottom point, you may find this more accurate and easier to make this stitch by turning your flywheel by hand.
Step 4. After you have finished sewing your facing to the top, very carefully cut down the V leaving approx 0.5cm seam allowance on the sides of the stitched V.
Step 5. Very carefully take some sharp scissors and snip right down to the bottom of the V. Avoiding the stitching.
Step 6. Lastly, carefully snip the seam allowance on all the curved edges of your neckline.
Step 7. Now turn your facing to the inside and press with steam!
Tah Dah! You will have a lovely V-neck on your pretty tunic.
Find the sewing pattern here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/ava-tunic-pattern-sizes-10-28
]]>
These handy bobbin holders have been used as free gifts for our Club Members in the past as part of the monthly subscription service we offer. They're now available to buy via the website!
Simply pop a bobbin onto the holder first, then the thread to keep the correct colours together.
Find the bobbin holders here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/bobbin-thread-organisers-set-of-6
To find out more about Club Membership tap here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/pages/club-membership
]]>We used this technique when making out beehive folder cover and pouch set -
https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/beehive-a4-folder-cover-zip-pouch-set-pattern
Satin stitch is a close zip zag stitch that is used to create the bee's stripes!
First, affix your applique onto your main fabric that you'll be stitching onto. For example we used a bee body shape and wings, so we'll be ironing these onto our main fabric with bondaweb first. We have a handy blog post on how to applique here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/blogs/blog/how-to-applique
When you are ready to start sewing your bee's stripes, it's time to select your stitch. We use approx width of - 3.5mm and straight line of - 0.2mm.
(It is always advisable to test the satin stitch first on a spare piece of fabric.)
We use the regular 'J' sewing foot for our Brother sewing machine, but you can also use the 'N' foot (or monogramming foot) which has a handy channel on the bottom of the foot for thicker stitches to glide through. Either foot works well here.
Start at one side of your bees body and begin your stitch!
Tah Dah! You are all finished. We hope you enjoy using this stitch for many more sewing projects!
]]>Open flat with right side facing down. Press open the seam allowances. Place the zip face down running along the back seam of the fabric. Ensure the top of the zip starts 2" from the left edge, where the locking stitch is. Roll the zip down the seam ensuring the zip teeth are exactly in line with the seam and use pins to hold in place. Hand stitch a large tacking stitch around the zip to hold in place and the pins can then be removed
Turn your fabric so the right side is facing up and stitch the zip in place using a zipper foot so that you can get nice and close to the edge. Stitch a rectangle around the zip, starting and stopping 2" from the left and right edge.
Take care when passing the zip head. Make sure you stop stitching when you reach the head and then, leaving the needle in the fabric, move the head up and out of the way before continuing to sew.
Remove all the tacking, and carefully unpick the large stitching along the centre seam (within the rectangle of stitching) to expose the zip. Be careful not to cut the edge of the fabric when doing this.
Your concealed zip is now complete!
This simple technique is used when making our lovely Nautical Boat Cushion and our Applique Owl Cushion.
Find them here - https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/nautical-cushion-pattern & https://www.owlandsewingcat.com/products/applique-owl-cushion-pattern
]]>