How to sew with bias binding
In this blog post we will show you how to use bias binding to edge a project. For an example we are going to use the brand new Waterfall Jacked pattern. There are two different ways to use bias binding, one used hand sewing and one doesn't!
Gather your tools -
> Bias binding
> Matching thread
> Sharp hand sewing needle
FIRST METHOD - (using hand sewing)
Firstly, start by folding the bias 1cm up towards you so the raw edge will be hidden once stitched in place. (shown below) Now, stitch in the first fold line of the bias binding ensuring the raw edge of the binding is in line with the raw edge of the fabric and with right sides facing.
At this point, if you are following the pattern for the jacket you will need to stitch the binding from the hem, up one front straight edge. Stopping right on the edge of the fabric at the top corner, and cut off the excess binding as shown below. Repeat on the other front straight edge on the opposite side of the jacket.
The second step is to take the bias binding and fold it onto the wrong side of the fabric. This is so half of the binding is showing on the right side and half is showing on the wrong side, pin into place to hold. This is how the binding will look once finished and therefore the raw edge will be neatly hidden.
At this point if making the jacket take another piece of binding to work around the curved neck edge. First fold over 1cm up towards yourself as before to hide the raw edge. Pin the binding in place around the curved neck edge with right sides facing, cut the binding 1 cm longer than the neck edge and fold over 1cm of the raw edge and the end of the neck as at the beginning. (as shown below) Stitch in the first fold line as before.
Make sure to hide your machine stitching by ensuring the bias binding covers it, as shown below.
Thirdly and finally, hand stitch your binding onto the wrong side of the fabric to hold in place. Catching a little fabric and a little binding as you go.
SECOND METHOD - (all sewn on machine in two stages, starting on the front)
The first step is the same as before, stitch the bias binding right sides together down the raw edge of the jacket as shown below.
The next step is to pin the binding onto the right side of the fabric to hide the raw edge, just as before. Make sure the pins are on the right side of the fabric as this is the side you will be machine stitching down.
When doing this make sure the binding hides the stitching you have made attaching the bias to the fabric. This is shown in white thread below.
Now stitch in the ditch down the folded bias binding on right side of the fabric as shown below using white thread. Make sure to catch the bias binding on the back of the fabric when stitching. Use a matching thread at this point as the stitching on the bias binding will be seen.
The back of the jacket should look like this, having caught the bias binding on the back and have a nice neat stitch on the front made in the ditch of the binding.
THIRD METHOD - (all sewn on machine in two stages, starting on the back)
This method is the same as the second. However, when sewing on the binding start by sewing it onto the wrong side of the fabric (right side of binding facing down onto the back of the fabric.) Then fold binding to encase raw edge and pin in place.
Finally top stitch binding down on the right side of the fabric.
You will see the stitching on the front of the fabric and on the back too, use a matching thread to avoid any wobbly stitches being seen!
FOURTH METHOD - (all sewn on machine in one stage)
This is the simplest and quickest method of sewing binding. However it does require some skill to sew in a perfectly straight line!
Simply fold binding in half to encase the raw edge and top stitch onto the binding on the right side of the fabric, making sure to catch the other half of the binding on the back of the fabric.
This can be a little tricky to catch both sides of the binding in one go. We advise making sure you binding is folded in half evenly (some cotton bindings can even be pressed into place, unfortunately this can't be done with satin binding used for the waterfall jacket as it is too delicate). Also, try your best to feel both sides of the binding are even as you sew along the edge. Lastly, use lots of pins to keep in place!
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